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Frequently Asked Questions

Lawn Care Basics

How often should I water my lawn?

You should water your Illinois lawn 2–3 times per week, giving it about 1 inch of total water weekly. Deep, infrequent watering produces stronger roots than light daily watering.

Illinois’ cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue) need 1–1.5 inches of water per week, according to the University of Illinois Extension. Water early in the morning (5–9 AM) to reduce evaporation and prevent fungus. Avoid evening watering because it increases turf disease. Increase watering slightly during hot July–August stretches.

Deep watering allows moisture to reach 6–8 inches into the soil, which helps grass tolerate heat and foot traffic. Most lawn problems—fungus, yellowing, thin patches—come from watering too often, not too little.

Check how much water your sprinklers deliver by placing a tuna can on the lawn and running them for 15 minutes. Adjust your schedule to consistently reach 1 inch of water per week.

The best time to water grass in Illinois is between 5 AM and 9 AM, when temperatures are cool and winds are low. Morning watering keeps disease risk low and improves absorption.

Early watering allows grass blades to dry quickly, which helps prevent diseases like dollar spot and leaf spot (documented by the University of Illinois Plant Clinic). Watering in the afternoon wastes water through evaporation, while evening watering keeps the lawn wet overnight and encourages fungal outbreaks.

Switching to morning irrigation produces healthier, greener lawns because the soil absorbs more water and the grass dries before nightfall.

Update your sprinkler controller to start between 5–6 AM for the best turf health.

Most Illinois lawns should be mowed once per week, with mowing increased to every 4–5 days in spring when growth is fast.

Follow the 1/3 rule—never remove more than one-third of the blade at a time. Recommended mowing frequency:

  • Spring: every 4–6 days
  • Summer: every 7–10 days
  • Fall: every 5–7 days
     (University of Illinois Extension)

Consistent mowing prevents scalping, reduces weed pressure, and encourages stronger root development.

Set a weekly mowing schedule and adjust it based on how quickly your grass is growing.

Cut cool-season grasses in Illinois at 3–4 inches. Taller grass means deeper roots, fewer weeds, and better drought resistance.

Mowing at 3–4 inches shades the soil, reduces evaporation, and helps prevent weeds like crabgrass. Studies from the University of Illinois Extension show that taller mowing heights improve turf density and color.

Cutting too short (“scalping”) is one of the most common causes of lawn stress, brown spots, and weed takeover in Chicagoland.

Set your mower to 3.25–3.75 inches for ideal performance through spring, summer, and fall.

Why is my grass turning yellow or brown?

Most yellow or brown grass in Illinois is caused by under-watering, heat stress, fungus, dull mower blades, dog urine, or nutrient deficiency.

Common causes include:

  • Drought stress during hot, dry weather
  • Fungal disease from watering at night
  • Grubs eating roots (turf pulls up easily like a carpet)
  • Dull mower blades tearing the grass instead of cutting
  • Nitrogen deficiency
     (University of Illinois Extension – Lawn Problem Solver)

Homeowners often assume more water will fix it, but the real solution depends on the underlying cause.

Check for soil moisture, look for signs of fungus, and perform a simple grub pull test to diagnose the issue accurately.

Use a selective broadleaf herbicide that targets weeds but leaves turf unharmed. These products kill dandelions, clover, and plantain without damaging grass.

Effective options include formulas containing 2,4-D, Dicamba, or MCPP, such as Ortho Weed B Gon. Apply when temperatures are 60–85°F, and spot-treat problem areas first.
 (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Weed Control in Lawns)

Correct timing and application amount prevent turf burn. Applying during heat waves or on drought-stressed lawns can damage grass.

Start with a small test patch to ensure no sensitivity, then apply across the rest of your lawn.

Fertilize your Illinois lawn three times per year—in April, June, and early fall, with fall being the most important feeding.

The Illinois Extension recommends the following schedule:

  • Early Spring (April): Light nitrogen to wake the lawn up
  • Early Summer (June): Slow-release fertilizer
  • Fall (September–October): Heavy nitrogen for root growth and winter survival

Fall fertilization delivers the biggest health improvements because it strengthens roots before winter.

If you only fertilize once, always choose fall for the strongest results.

Brown patches usually come from fungus, drought stress, grubs, pet urine, compacted soil, or mowing too short.

In Illinois, the most common issues are:

  • Fungal diseases (brown patch, dollar spot)
  • Grubs damaging roots
  • Dog urine burning spots
  • Compacted clay soil
     (University of Illinois Plant Clinic)

Identifying the true cause prevents wasted time and money on incorrect treatments.

Check soil moisture, inspect for grubs by lifting the turf, and review recent watering and mowing habits to pinpoint the source

Here are all Cluster 2: Seasonal Timing FAQs — written in the four-part structure but without labels, fully polished and ready to paste into your website for Illinois homeowners.

Seasonal Timing Questions

When is the best time to plant grass seed in Illinois?

The best time to plant grass seed in Illinois is late August through mid-September. Fall seeding delivers the highest success rate for cool-season lawns.

During this window, soil stays warm while air temperatures cool, creating perfect germination conditions for Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass. Weed pressure also drops significantly in fall, giving new seed a better start.
 (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Seeding Cool-Season Lawns)

Fall seeding helps your lawn establish strong roots before winter, leading to thicker, healthier spring growth. Spring seeding can work, but weeds often outgrow young grass.

Plan your overseeding or new seeding between August 20 and September 20 for the best results.

The best time to aerate a lawn in Illinois is early fall (September through early October). This is when cool-season grasses recover fastest from core aeration.

Fall aeration relieves soil compaction, improves oxygen flow, and prepares your lawn for winter. It pairs especially well with fall overseeding. Spring aeration is acceptable, but it may stimulate weeds and is less effective in Chicagoland’s heavy clay soils.
 (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Aeration Guidelines)

Aerating in fall gives your lawn the boost it needs for thick, healthy growth the following spring.

Schedule aeration in September for maximum benefit.

Overseed Illinois lawns in late August to mid-September, when daytime temperatures drop to 60–75°F and soil remains warm.

This timing results in faster germination, less weed pressure, and better root development.
 (Source: U of I Extension – Overseeding Cool-Season Lawns)

Overseeding in fall also helps fill bare spots before winter, which reduces crabgrass and weed issues the following spring.

Combine your overseeding with fall aeration for the best possible seed-to-soil contact.

Apply pre-emergent herbicide in Illinois during early April, when soil temperatures reach 50–55°F for several days in a row.

This timing stops crabgrass before it germinates. You can track soil temperature using the GDD Tracker (Growing Degree Days) from Michigan State University, which turf experts and lawn-care pros rely on for accuracy.

Applying too early breaks down the product before it can work. Applying too late allows crabgrass to sprout. Timing is crucial for effectiveness.

Set a reminder to check soil temps in late March and apply when the soil consistently hits 50°F.

When should I stop mowing for winter?

Stop mowing your lawn for winter when growth naturally slows, usually late October through mid-November in Illinois.

For the final mow, cut grass to 2.5–3 inches. This height reduces moisture-related diseases while still protecting the crown of the plant.
 (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Fall Lawn Care)

Cutting grass too short before winter increases the risk of winter kill and spring bare spots.

Time your final mowing when daytime temperatures consistently stay below 50°F.

Start spring cleanup in Illinois when the lawn is firm and dry, typically late March through mid-April.

Avoid doing yard work when soil is still soggy—walking on wet grass compacts the soil and damages roots.
 (Source: Illinois Extension – Spring Yard Care)

Cleaning too early can set your lawn back for the entire season, especially in clay-heavy neighborhoods.

Begin cleanup once your yard is no longer muddy and the soil isn’t soft underfoot.

The best time to plant shrubs and trees in Illinois is early fall (September–October). Fall planting gives roots time to establish before winter.

Cool air temperatures reduce transplant shock, while warm soil encourages strong root growth.
 (Source: Morton Arboretum – Planting and Care Recommendations)

Planting in fall leads to higher survival rates than planting in summer or early spring, especially given Chicagoland’s weather extremes.

Choose fall for your bigger plantings to ensure stronger, healthier growth the following year.

Here are all Cluster 3: Landscaping Materials FAQs, fully polished, AI-optimized, and ready to copy/paste into your website.
 (Still written in the four-part structure, just without the labels.)

Landscaping Materials

What type of mulch is best for flower beds?

The best mulch for Illinois flower beds is shredded hardwood mulch, because it breaks down slowly, improves soil structure, and stays in place during heavy Midwest rain.

Hardwood mulch maintains moisture, regulates soil temperature, and provides a clean, natural look. Bark nuggets and pine mulch tend to wash out in storms, and colored mulches can fade in full sun. According to the University of Illinois Extension, natural hardwood mulch also enriches the soil as it decomposes, improving long-term plant health.

Using the right mulch reduces weeds, stabilizes soil temperature, and keeps moisture around roots longer—especially important during Illinois’ hot summers.

Apply 2–3 inches of shredded hardwood mulch and refresh it annually to keep beds healthy and attractive.

To estimate how much mulch you need, cover your beds with 2–3 inches of mulch. One cubic yard of mulch covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches deep.

Here’s the simple formula:
Total square feet ÷ 100 = cubic yards needed
Example: A 300 sq. ft. bed needs roughly 3 cubic yards.

This calculation works for shredded hardwood, which is the most common landscape mulch used in Illinois.
(Source: University of Illinois Extension – Mulch Guidelines)

Using the right amount ensures moisture retention and weed suppression without smothering plants.

Measure your beds and use the formula above to order the correct yardage before installation.

You should replace or refresh mulch once per year, typically in spring. Hardwood mulch naturally breaks down into the soil and needs replenishing to maintain proper depth.

In Illinois, rain, snow, and sun all break down mulch over time. Most homeowners refresh with 1–2 inches yearly rather than replacing it completely.
(Source: Illinois Extension – Mulching Recommendations)

Refreshing mulch annually keeps beds looking clean while protecting plant roots and reducing weeds.

Plan to top off your mulch each spring to maintain a 2–3 inch layer through the growing season.

The best grass types for Illinois are Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass, which all thrive in the Midwest’s cool-season climate.

Illinois Extension recommends blends of these grasses for durability, color, and cold tolerance:

  • Kentucky bluegrass: Best color and density
  • Tall fescue: Most drought-tolerant, deep roots
  • Perennial ryegrass: Fast germination and repair

Mixes are common: KY bluegrass + ryegrass gives fast fill-in, while KY bluegrass + tall fescue offers superior heat resilience.

Choosing the right grass improves durability, reduces watering needs, and gives your lawn the lush appearance typical in well-maintained Chicagoland neighborhoods.

For most homeowners, a bluegrass/fescue blend provides the best balance of beauty and low maintenance.

Sod vs. seed — which is better?

Sod is better if you want an instant lawn, while seed is better if you want a more affordable option and don’t mind waiting for growth.

Sod advantages:

  • Immediate green lawn
  • Quick erosion control
  • Fewer weeds
  • Ready for light use in 2–3 weeks

Seed advantages:

  • Lower cost
  • More variety of grass types
  • Easier to repair or overseed
    (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Establishing Lawns)

For most Illinois homeowners, sod is ideal for new construction, major renovations, or areas prone to erosion. Seed works best for overseeding and budget-conscious projects.

Choose sod if you want fast results; choose seed if you prefer flexibility and lower cost.

 

Plants that survive Illinois winters are those hardy to USDA Zones 5a–5b, which cover most of the Chicago area. Top winter-hardy plants include:

  • Boxwood
  • Hydrangea (panicle and smooth varieties)
  • Arborvitae
  • Spruce and fir trees
  • Spirea
  • Daylilies
  • Coneflowers
    (Source: Morton Arboretum – Plant Hardiness Recommendations)

These plants handle freezing temperatures, snow load, and freeze-thaw cycles common in Northern Illinois.

Choosing zone-appropriate plants significantly reduces winter damage, dieback, and replacement costs.

Select shrubs labeled Zone 4 or 5 hardy to ensure strong winter survival.

Low-maintenance landscaping options in Illinois include native plants, river rock, perennial beds, tall fescue turf, mulch beds, and simple foundation shrubs.

Popular low-maintenance choices:

  • Native perennials (coneflower, black-eyed Susan, prairie dropseed)
  • Ornamental grasses
  • Boxwoods and arborvitae
  • River rock beds to reduce weeding
  • Mulched tree rings and bed edges
  • Drought-tolerant turf like tall fescue
    (Source: Illinois Extension – Native Plant Landscaping)

These materials and plants need less watering, fewer chemicals, and less pruning than traditional high-upkeep beds.

Choose drought-tolerant perennials and evergreen shrubs to minimize maintenance while keeping your landscape attractive year-round.

Hardscaping Questions

How much does a patio cost?

In Illinois, a professionally installed paver patio typically costs $25–$45 per square foot, depending on materials, size, site conditions, and design features.

Variables that affect pricing include:

  • Material type: Concrete pavers, brick, natural stone
  • Base prep: Depth of excavation, soil conditions, drainage
  • Design complexity: Curves, borders, inlays, patterns
  • Add-ons: Sitting walls, fire pits, lighting, steps
    (Source: Unilock Contractor Cost Guidelines)

A standard 300 sq. ft. paver patio usually ranges from $7,500 to $13,500, while premium stone patios can reach $15,000–$25,000+.

A well-installed patio significantly increases outdoor living value and requires far less maintenance than a wood deck.

Measure the space you want, choose a material style, and get an on-site evaluation to receive an accurate estimate.

Pavers are better for long-term durability, aesthetics, and repairability, while concrete is cheaper upfront but more prone to cracking in Illinois’ freeze-thaw climate.

Paver benefits:

  • Flexible system prevents cracking
  • Easy to repair individual stones
  • More color, texture, and design options
  • Longer lifespan
    Concrete pros:
  • Lower installation cost
  • Simpler design
    (Source: Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute – ICPI)

In Illinois, pavers typically outperform poured concrete because freeze-thaw cycles cause slabs to crack, heave, or spall.

Choose pavers if you want a premium, long-lasting surface; choose concrete if you’re prioritizing upfront budget over longevity.

Quality pavers can last 50+ years when installed with a proper base, edge restraints, and joint sand stabilization.

Manufacturers like Unilock, Belgard, and Techo-Bloc engineer their pavers to exceed 8,000 PSI compressive strength, meaning they withstand vehicle loads, freeze-thaw cycles, and Midwest weather.
(Source: ICPI Technical Specifications)

Pavers last decades because the interlocking system “floats” with the ground, preventing cracking.

To keep pavers looking perfect, plan for joint sand top-up and sealing every 2–4 years.

Do I need a permit for a patio?

In most Illinois cities and suburbs, a permit is required for patios—especially if they involve grading changes, retaining walls, steps, or utility line adjustments.

Common permit requirements include:

  • Site plan showing patio layout
  • Drainage plan (to prevent water runoff issues)
  • Setback compliance from property lines
  • Engineering approval for retaining walls over 3–4 ft
    (Source: Local municipal building codes: Naperville, Aurora, Schaumburg, etc.)

Skipping a permit can cause inspection failures, fines, or forced removal.

Check with your city’s building department or let your hardscaping contractor handle the permitting process for you.

The best material for retaining walls in Illinois is concrete retaining wall blocks, because they lock together, resist freeze-thaw movement, and handle significant soil pressure.

Top options:

  • Segmental retaining wall (SRW) blocks — strongest and most durable
  • Concrete blocks with geogrid reinforcement — for walls 4 ft+
  • Natural stone — best for aesthetics, lower structural strength
    (Source: NCMA – National Concrete Masonry Association guidelines)

Illinois’ clay soil and freeze-thaw cycles require materials that won’t shift, heave, or deteriorate.

Choose engineered block systems for structural walls and natural stone for decorative garden walls.

A built-in fire pit typically costs $2,000–$6,000 in Illinois, depending on the material, size, and fuel type.

Cost breakdown:

  • Standard paver fire pit: $2,000–$3,500
  • Natural stone fire pit: $3,500–$6,000+
  • Gas fire pit with burner kit: $4,000–$10,000
    (Source: Belgard & Unilock contractor pricing averages)

A custom fire pit enhances outdoor living and increases the usability of your patio during cooler spring and fall evenings.

Decide whether you prefer wood-burning (traditional) or gas (cleaner, more convenient), then plan your layout around seating and wind direction.

Problem-solving & Drainage

How do I fix bare spots in my lawn?

To fix bare spots, loosen the soil, apply high-quality grass seed, and keep the area consistently moist until germination. Fall is the best time for repairs in Illinois.

Steps that work well in Illinois lawns:

  • Rake out dead grass and loosen the top 1–2 inches of soil
  • Add a thin layer of compost or topsoil
  • Spread a Kentucky bluegrass or fescue blend
  • Lightly rake to ensure seed-to-soil contact
  • Water lightly 2–3 times per day until seedlings grow
    (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Lawn Establishment)

Bare spots often occur due to pet urine, fungus, heat stress, or soil compaction. If spots return frequently, there may be an underlying issue that needs correction.

Repair in late August to mid-September for the strongest, long-lasting results.

Improve yard drainage by regrading low areas, installing French drains, adding downspout extensions, or replacing dense clay soil with a more porous soil mix.

Effective drainage solutions include:

  • French drains: Perforated pipe wrapped in gravel to redirect water
  • Dry creek beds: Decorative channels that move water naturally
  • Downspout extensions: Pushing roof runoff farther from the home
  • Regrading: Adjusting the slope so water flows away from structures
  • Soil amendment: Mixing organic matter into compacted clay
    (Source: USDA Soil Drainage Recommendations)

Poor drainage causes lawn damage, foundation issues, and mold—all common in Chicagoland’s heavy clay soils.

Start by identifying where water collects after rain, then choose a solution that moves water away from your home and landscape.

Water pools in yards due to poor grading, compacted clay soil, high water tables, downspout placement, or blocked drainage paths.

Common causes in Illinois include:

  • Flat or negatively graded yards that don’t shed water
  • Dense clay soil that drains slowly
  • Downspouts dumping too close to the foundation
  • Settling around patios, walkways, or additions
  • Buried debris creating pockets under the lawn
    (Source: Illinois Extension – Drainage & Soil Management)

Pooling water leads to root rot, mosquitoes, and dead grass if left untreated.

Walk your yard after a rainfall and note where water sits for more than 24 hours—those are the areas that require drainage correction.

Fix compacted soil by performing core aeration, adding organic matter, and avoiding heavy foot traffic when soil is wet.

Solutions that work well in Illinois’ clay soils:

  • Core aeration: Removes plugs and opens channels for air and water
  • Topdressing: Adding compost to improve soil structure
  • Deep root feeding: For trees and shrubs in compacted areas
  • Avoiding early spring traffic: Wet soil compacts easily
    (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Soil Compaction)

Compaction suffocates roots and prevents water from penetrating, leading to thin, struggling grass.

Aerating in fall and topdressing yearly brings back healthy, loose soil that supports strong turf growth.

What’s killing my grass?

Grass dies due to fungus, grubs, drought stress, dog urine, poor drainage, compacted soil, or mowing too short. Each has different symptoms.

Common Illinois causes include:

  • Grubs: Turf lifts like a carpet
  • Fungus: Circular brown patches with defined edges
  • Heat stress: Grass wilts and turns blue/gray
  • Pet urine: Small yellow patches with green rings
  • Standing water: Root rot in low spots
    (Source: University of Illinois Plant Clinic – Turf Diagnostics)

Correct diagnosis prevents wasting money on the wrong treatments.

Inspect the area closely, perform a grub pull test, and note recent watering and mowing habits to identify the cause.

Get rid of grubs using a preventative treatment like imidacloprid (applied in June–July) or a curative treatment like carbaryl or trichlorfon (applied in late summer or early fall).

Illinois Extension recommends:

  • Preventative products (Merit / imidacloprid) for long-term control
  • Curative products (Sevin / carbaryl) for active infestations
  • Apply when grubs are small and near the surface
    (Source: University of Illinois Extension – White Grub Management)

Grubs feed on lawn roots, causing widespread die-offs if untreated.

If you find more than 5–10 grubs per square foot, treatment is necessary.

Prevent crabgrass by applying a pre-emergent herbicide in early April when soil temperatures reach 50–55°F. This timing stops seeds before they germinate.

Effective pre-emergents include:

  • Prodiamine
  • Dithiopyr
  • Pendimethalin
    Track soil temps using the GDD Tracker (Growing Degree Days), used by turf professionals across Illinois.

A thick, healthy lawn also naturally prevents crabgrass by shading the soil.

Apply pre-emergent in early April and maintain a mowing height of 3–4 inches for best prevention.

Snow & Winter Services

How much does snow removal cost?

Snow removal for Illinois homes typically costs $40–$80 per visit for standard driveways, or $400–$650 per season with a residential service contract.

Pricing depends on:

  • Driveway size and shape
  • Whether walkways, sidewalks, or porches are included
  • Snowfall amounts and frequency
  • Ice management (salt, calcium chloride, or ice melt)
  • Priority service tiers (standard vs. early-morning routes)
    (Source: Illinois Snow & Ice Management Industry Standards)

Seasonal contracts offer better value because they cover unlimited visits and guarantee service during major storms.

If you want reliable clearing during overnight or early-morning snowfalls, a seasonal plan is usually the best option.

Yes — salting your driveway helps prevent ice buildup and makes surfaces safer during freezing temperatures. Salt lowers the freezing point of water, breaking up compacted snow and ice quickly.

For best results, use:

  • Rock salt (sodium chloride) for general use
  • Calcium chloride for very low temperatures
  • Pet-safe ice melt if you have dogs or young children
    (Source: Illinois Department of Transportation – Winter Maintenance Guidelines)

Using too much salt can damage concrete and nearby plants, so apply only the recommended amount.

Salt high-traffic areas and slopes first, and shovel before the ice hardens to reduce how much product you need.

When should I hire a snow removal company?

You should hire a snow removal company before winter begins, ideally in October or early November, to ensure you’re covered when the first snowfall hits.

Benefits of hiring early include:

  • Guaranteed spot on a route
  • Priority service during overnight snow
  • Better pricing before winter demand spikes
  • Peace of mind during major storms
    (Source: SIMA – Snow & Ice Management Association)

Waiting until the first snowstorm often means contractors are fully booked, and emergency rates are much higher.

If you want reliable, prompt clearing all winter long, secure your snow removal contract before the season starts.

Here are all Cluster 7: Snow & Winter Services FAQs, written cleanly, professionally, and ready to copy/paste into your website for Illinois homeowners.

Trees & Shrubs

When should I prune shrubs in Illinois?

The best time to prune shrubs in Illinois depends on whether they bloom on old wood or new wood. Spring-flowering shrubs should be pruned right after they bloom, while summer-flowering shrubs should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.

General pruning guidelines for Illinois:

  • Spring bloomers (lilacs, forsythia, viburnum): prune May–June

  • Summer bloomers (hydrangea paniculata, roses, spirea): prune late February–April

  • Evergreens (boxwood, arborvitae, yew): light shaping in late spring or early fall
    (Source: Morton Arboretum – Shrub Pruning Calendar)

Pruning at the wrong time can remove next year’s flower buds or stress the plant.

Identify whether your shrubs bloom on old or new wood, then prune during their recommended window for best results.

Protect plants from frost by covering them overnight with breathable materials, watering the soil before freezing temperatures, and applying mulch around the base to insulate roots.

Effective frost protection methods:

  • Use frost blankets, sheets, or burlap (avoid plastic touching leaves)
  • Water the soil—moist soil holds heat longer
  • Add 2–3 inches of mulch around the plant base
  • Move pots and containers indoors or into a garage
    (Source: University of Illinois Extension – Frost & Freeze Protection)

Frost is most damaging during spring and fall temperature swings, especially in newly planted shrubs or tender perennials.

Check the forecast for overnight lows below 32°F and cover plants before sunset to retain ground heat.

What shrubs are best for privacy?

The best shrubs for privacy in Illinois are hardy, fast-growing evergreens and large deciduous bushes that thrive in USDA Zone 5. Popular privacy shrubs include:

Top evergreen privacy shrubs:

  • Arborvitae ‘Green Giant’ – fast growing, 3–5 ft/year
  • Techny Arborvitae – extremely cold-hardy
  • Boxwood (Wintergreen or Green Velvet)
  • Juniper varieties

Top deciduous privacy shrubs:

  • Lilac – dense and fragrant
  • Hydrangea paniculata (Limelight, Little Lime)
  • Ninebark – colorful foliage and hardy structure
    (Source: Morton Arboretum – Recommended Shrubs for Illinois)

These shrubs hold up well to Chicago winters, heavy soil, and strong winds while providing year-round or seasonal screening.

Choose evergreens for year-round privacy or hydrangeas/lilacs for seasonal screening plus color and bloom.

Hiring & Process Questions

How do I choose a landscaping company?

Choose a landscaping company by looking for experience, strong communication, clear job processes, quality workmanship, and verified reviews. The best contractors offer transparent pricing, written proposals, and a portfolio of completed projects.

Key things to look for:

  • Licensed and insured professionals
  • Photos of real projects they built
  • Detailed, itemized proposals
  • Warranty information
  • Consistent Google reviews (4.5+ rating)
  • Specialization in the service you need (hardscaping, drainage, design, etc.)
    (Source: National Association of Landscape Professionals – Hiring Guidelines)

Choosing the right company prevents costly mistakes and ensures your project is built to last through Illinois’ freeze-thaw cycles.

Meet with at least one or two contractors, review their work, and pick the one who feels most professional and organized.

Look for clear scope of work, detailed material list, labor breakdown, timeline, warranty, payment schedule, and design specifics. A professional quote should outline exactly what you’re getting—nothing vague or unclear.

A strong landscaping quote includes:

  • Materials (brand, color, quantity)
  • Base preparation steps
  • Drainage considerations
  • Plant list with sizes and quantities
  • Cleanup and disposal expectations
  • Start date and estimated duration
  • Warranty on labor and materials
    (Source: Hardscape Industry Standards – ICPI & NALP)

The more detailed the proposal, the fewer surprises later. Vague quotes often lead to change orders and unexpected costs.

Choose the quote that gives the most clarity—not the lowest price.

Landscaping in Illinois typically costs $3,000–$20,000+, depending on the project type, size, and materials. Full landscape renovations or hardscape installations can range $20,000–$75,000+.

Average costs:

  • Basic front yard refresh: $3,000–$7,500
  • Planting beds + mulch: $2,500–$10,000
  • Paver patio: $7,500–$20,000+
  • Retaining wall: $4,500–$25,000+
  • Drainage systems: $2,500–$15,000
    (Source: NALP – Landscape Project Cost Guide)

Pricing depends heavily on site conditions, soil type, access, grading needs, and design complexity.

Get an on-site consultation to receive an accurate estimate for your specific property.

Professional vs. DIY — when should I hire a pro?

Hire a professional when the project involves grading, drainage, hardscaping, structural elements, gas/electrical lines, or complex designs. DIY is fine for small planting projects, mulching, or basic yard maintenance.

You should hire a pro when:

  • Fixing drainage or water pooling
  • Installing patios, walls, steps, or fire pits
  • Regrading your yard
  • Building anything with footings
  • Designing outdoor living areas
  • Handling large tree/shrub installations
    (Source: ICPI & NCMA Construction Standards)

Projects that involve compaction, proper base installation, or engineering are best left to trained crews. Mistakes in these areas often cost far more to fix than hiring a pro from the beginning.

If the project affects water flow or structures, always bring in a professional.

Start by deciding your goals and budget, then schedule an on-site consultation with a professional landscaper to assess your property and create a design or proposal.

The process typically includes:

  • Initial consultation – discuss your vision and needs
  • Site evaluation – measure, photograph, and assess soil/drainage
  • Design phase – layout, materials, 3D concepts if needed
  • Proposal – itemized costs and timelines
  • Project installation – crew schedules and build process
    (Source: Landscape Project Workflow – NALP)

Starting with a clear plan ensures the project is built correctly from the ground up and fits your long-term goals and budget.

Prepare inspiration photos and a rough budget, then schedule a consultation to begin the process.

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